Clarity

This section deals with the grading of imperfections in a diamond. In our relationships with people we choose our friends or spouses knowing they have idiosyncrasies but loving them anyway (except my wife who is perfect, in case she proofreads this). You should think similarly when buying a diamond.

The GIA laboratory grades clarity (from most perfect to least) as follows:

• Flawless
• Internally flawless
• VVS1 (very, very slightly imperfect1)
• VVS2 (very, very slightly imperfect 2)
• VS1 (very slightly imperfect 1)
• VS2 (very slightly imperfect 2)
• SI1 (slightly imperfect 1)
• SI2 (Slightly Imperfect 2)
• I1 (Imperfect 1)
• I2 Imperfect 2)
• I3 (imperfect 3)

Clever, right?

I will expand upon these categories shortly, but first off let me say that clarity grading is done at ten power meaning ten-time magnification. You can buy a 10-power magnifier called a loupe on line from Baush and Lomb or Triplet for around $50. This will allow you to practice focusing at home before going into a jeweler, to have a consistent tool to use when shopping, and to avoid using a nonhygienic, distorted, misleading borrowed loupe. A microscope with zoom going from 10 to 50 or 60 power with an overhead florescent light is a FAR better tool if your jeweler has one, as even the most experienced person with 20-20 vision will have trouble finding imperfections in diamonds of higher clarity.

About imperfections:

Typical imperfections plotted on a GIA certificate or noted in the comments are: feathers, clouds, pinpoints, cavities, chips, needles, scratches, pits, and graining.

Generally, white imperfections are better than black, centrally located imperfections are worse than peripherally located ones, dots (crystals and pinpoints) are better than lines (feathers which are small cleavages), imperfections that reach the edge of the girdle or break the surface are worse than those that are internal.

CLOUDS CAN FREQUENTLY IMPACT THE BRILLIANCE OF A DIAMOND so I like to compare a diamond with clouds to a nonhazy diamond without clouds before I would consider purchasing it. Graining can also affect the brilliance of a diamond. Reflecting imperfections (those that appear to be in multiple locations but are really only in one place) are worse than nonreflecting. Imperfections that are mapped in red color on the GIA cert are internal though they may reach the surface at some point. Imperfections that are mapped in green are strictly surface imperfections. Beware of pits and cavities. Pits and cavities can collect dirt and can (but not always ) make a diamond more susceptible to chipping, particularly if they are located on the edge of the diamond.

Flawless and internally flawless - These are diamonds with no internal imperfections. If you buy one you should know that it is reasonably likely that over 20 years of wear that you can put a teensy-weensy nick that is invisible to you but could substantially lessen the value of your diamond which will now need to be repolished smaller and recertified. Are diamonds the hardest substance known to man? Yes. Are they scratch proof? No, for example, when thrown into a jewelry box with another diamond ring or when the girdle (thin outer edge of a diamond, not tight underwear) of the diamond is chipped. Girdles designated very thin on a GIA cert chip fairly commonly, especially when a woman wears a ring that is too large (finger size) and it spins around on her finger.

VVS1 - This is the most perfect grade that I would personally ever consider buying. These diamonds have inclusions so slight they are frustratingly difficult for a skilled grader to locate even under magnification. This difficulty is compounded by the fact that you can never seem to get all the "darned" dust off of the cloth that you wipe a diamond with to clean it. VVS1 diamonds are disproportionately more highly priced (and prized) than VVS2 diamonds considering the faint difference in clarity...especially in the Asian market. This makes them the superior purchase for investors for resale, but a worse choice in terms of price for your personal use.

VS1 - The GIA would define VS1 imperfections as minor, but I would describe them as minute even under magnification. They are only eye visible if the lab made a mistake. Typically these imperfections are pinpoint imperfections under magnification rather than feathers meaning dots rather than lines. The diamond is more desirable if the imperfections are located off the table meaning not under the big flat top (center) facet of the diamond.

VS2 - I would describe these imperfections as minor rather than minute. Typically, they are easily located within 30 seconds under a microscope with assistance from a jeweler, but they would be 1000% invisible to the eye of a mere mortal and certainly not objectionable. At this point I will point out that not all VS diamonds are considered equal in value. The right 1/3 of a GIA certificate has a color and clarity scale which I will elaborate below, but let me first point out that the space between the two lines delineating VS2 is meant to show you that VS2, along with all other clarity grades, is a range. So, not all VS2's are created equal. Some are better (more perfect or what I call cleaner) VS2's than others and therefore more valuable.

SI1 - I categorize these diamonds as having obvious rathan than minor imperfections under a microscope. They are still not eye visible unless it is an unusually weak SI1 viewed by an unusually good eye. SI1 and SI2 are the most popular clarity grades among my buyers. I love an SI1 diamond where the imperfection can be hidden by a prong, or is only visible from the pavilion (under side) of the diamond so that it is impossible or extremely difficult to see when the diamond is mounted. These diamonds typically hit desirable price points and sell quickly.

SI2 - I categorize these diamonds as having obvious imperfections under a microscope but still generally not visible to the naked eye. Once again, these imperfections can sometimes be hidden under a prong. In even the worst SI2's, the imperfections might only be eye visible when the diamond is dirty. Once again, these diamonds make very affordable and therefore desirable engagement rings but are also great for earrings for a woman who wants unusually fine stud earrings.

I1 diamonds have imperfections that may be barely visible to the average naked eye from 6-8 inches. Since most people don't get that close to your ring (and definitely not that close to your ears without an invitation), the imperfections are still not eye visible. An I1 grade by the GIA is accurate. Unfortunately, most jewelers self-grade their I1 diamonds in a matter that is somewhere between a slight exaggeration and an outright blatant dirty dog lie. Beware of non-GIA certiffied I1 diamonds. GIA certified I1 diamonds are great for earrings and pendants. They are also good for people over 40 whose eyes are not good enough to see the imperfections and whose friends and family don't get close enough to see them.

I2 and I3 diamonds are for people with bad vision who want a lotta flash for not much cash. I have sold a lot of these diamonds in rings to older bachelors with romantic but not marital leanings. No judgement intended and I sincerely hope that my assessment of these fellows as bachelors is correct.

Addendum notes:

I should point out that the higher the clarity of a diamond is, the rarer. By way of example, there are FAR fewer VS1 diamonds mined than SI1.

This one is IMPORTANT-INSURANCE. I'd like to back pedal and address the fear factor that I may have created above. Most cleavages are not dangerous to the durability of a diamond. But sending an appraisal to your insurance company and specifically scheduling your ring on your homeowner’s policy is a good idea. In my experience, most losses come from user error...a ring left on the counter at the library or in the restroom while washing your hands or left accessible in a hotel room or at home for a lucky workman, cleaning lady, or mischievous child. Typically, the cost of insurance is $8 to $10 per $1000 dollar valuation. Jeweler's Mutual is my favorite option.

Maintenance: I recommend cleaning your diamond ring with a home ultrasonic or waterpik toothbrush or soaking it in a solution of 20% household ammonia and 80% water and then scrubbing it between the prongs with a manual toothbrush and then rinsing it in water. I also recommend having a jeweler check the prongs on your ring just once annually unless you drop the ring or whack it or notice a bent or missing prong) and paying for a really good cleaning and a thorough polishing. Easy on the prongs. Repeated polishing of your prongs wears them thin, makes them vulnerable to a diamond falling out, and then requires the expense of retipping.